Another Horse base completed.

I'm not too far away from at least being able to run through a few combat turns etc to get a feel for how the rules will work. The total now is:

4 bases of Horse.
5 bases of Foot.
1 artillery base.
3 command bases.

This week I hope to add a couple more foot bases and a base of dismounted dragoons.

This unit is marked as a 3 'block' base of Rash Veteran Gallopers! They would most typically represent a unit of horse possibly recruited among the Kings wealthier supporters, sons of Gentlemen etc, good riders and with a rather high opinion of themselves, confident and possibly trained under Rupert and Maurice in the latest tactics. They are marked as 'Rash' to represent the fact that in the heat of battle they could become rather difficult to control, especially following a spirited charge and successful melee. The rules make special provision for such troops. I just need to dry brush the brown patches on the bases.

Already undercoated is a base of dismounted dragoons, 12 horses with 4 holders, and 16 dragoons loading and firing. Wonderful tiny figures as usual as my close up hopefully shows, bearing in mind they are much enlarged in the pic!

Command bases and the first artillery.

Further to my 'Rules' post earlier today here are the first of the command bases and artillery base. I will be adding more of course. Some of the command figures are so good I plan to add a few to my horse units as officers, especially the galloping figure holding onto his hat! He will make a superb Cavalier horse officer I think.

C&C/ECW variant - The Rules so far.

Tony of the 'Prometheus in Aspic' blog has now sent me a current copy of the ECW variant of Commands & Colors. I'm pleased to have been able to have some small input into the development of these rules but all of the hard work has been done by Tony, and they have been re written and amended as research has continued. I want to post them here for any further input or discussion. Please note that they are based upon the C&C Napoleonic version in the main as we are both familiar with those rules now. One big advantage was the inclusion of a very playable ' form square' rule, which has now transformed into a 'Stand of Pikes' variant and will work very well for this period I am certain. Play testing will commence shortly. As you can see Tony has worked hard to achieve a sense of period flavour with the wording of the new Command Card set and the wonderful 'Hazzard a Chaunce' cards, and he has also produced a PDF of the cards for printing, which includes some lovely graphics. A big thank you my friend for all of your work which I am certain will enrich my gaming experience just as the introduction to the Napoleonic version has.

For those not familiar with how C&C works you can download full versions of the Napoleonic rule book from the official GMT Games website, link below.

C&C NAPOLEONIC RULEBOOK - PDF.

C&C ANCIENTS - BASE GAME LINK.

Tony's rather good ECW variant! - Draft C&C ECW variant rules – Version 2.4 – as at 2nd Sept 2012. Please note this is still a work in progress.


Conceptual Stuff

This is a set of rules based on GMT’s Commands & Colors: Napoleonics (CCN), designed for use with battles in the English Civil War (ECW). With some extensions, it is hoped that it will become suitable for the Thirty Years’ War at some future date.

The underlying rules are CCN – if something is not covered explicitly below, the first assumption should be that CCN applies.

1 hex is normally about 100-150 paces – we won’t worry too much about that. Foot types identified thus far are CL (clubmen) and FT (everything else). Mounted types are CU (cuirassier), GA (“galloper” type light cavalry) and TR (everything else... more cautious chaps).

Artillery (so far) is just type AR. Dragoons are type DR.

Sub-classifications

Training: Foot and Horse units are additionally classified as “Veteran”, “Trained” or “Raw”. Veterans get extra dice in combat, and may ignore 1 retreat flag. Raw units (and all militia are automatically raw) get some extra bad breaks in the Chance Cards, do not get to count Crossed-Sabres in melees, and suffer double retreats – militia get triple retreats. No special rules apply to Trained units – they are just neither Veteran nor Raw!

Some Royalist GA units of horse (not more than 25% of the cavalry fielded, and they do not have to be veterans, though they usually will be) may be further identified as “rash” – these units get an extra dice in melee, but are difficult to control if they are successful.

The standard configuration for Foot units is 2:1 muskets-to-pikes in these rules. Other proportions were used also, but this is assumed to make little difference to the combat effectiveness of the units.

Foot
A unit of Foot normally consists of 3 blocks (bases), but may in some cases be as large as 5, depending on its historical strength.

In CCN-speak, infantry units are of type FT – they may move 1 hex and carry out Melee Combat, or may stand still and carry out Melee or Ranged Combat.

In Melee Combat, a foot unit fights with one dice for each block, plus 1 extra dice if it is a mixed unit including pikes.

In Ranged Combat (firing, which is only allowed for FT units which have not moved), the no. of Combat Dice is equal to the number of blocks, MINUS 1 dice if the unit includes a proportion of pikes.

Veteran units (which may not be more than 25% of the FT units fielded) count an extra dice in all combat, and may ignore 1 retreat flag.

FT units which have pikes may adopt Stand of Pikes formation against cavalry – the rules and operation for this are exactly the same as for Squares in CCN.

There is an additional classification of units of foot, these are CL – “clubmen”, armed with hand weapons. These count 1 dice per block in melee, zero in ranged combat. CL units automatically rank as militia, and thus suffer triple retreats, and do not get to count Sabres as hits in melee.

Artillery 
May move 1 hex, or not move and do ranged combat. Normal unit is 1 or 2 blocks. 1 block has zero melee capability (i.e. cannot attack, and battle back with zero dice), and gets 1 firing dice at range 2-5 hexes.

Horse
Mounted troops (thus far) are types CU, TR, GA – being respectively cuirassiers, “trotters” and “gallopers”. I have dropped my proposed “caracole” rule as being of no relevance to the ECW.

No cavalry may carry out ranged combat – all pistol and carbine capability is assumed to be covered by the melee rules.

CU move up to 2 hexes and battle, GA move up to 3 and battle, TR move up to 3, but cannot move more than 2 if they are making a melee attack. [Typical units of horse in my armies will have 2-4 blocks/bases of 3 figures (on 60mm square bases – these are 20mm figures)].

Melee combat: 1 dice per block/base, +1 dice for veterans, +1 dice for GA in first round of a melee, +1 dice for certain Royalist GA units (not more than 25% of all cavalry present) who are nominated as “rash”. CU troops, being armoured, are harder to kill, and thus Crossed-Sabres does not count as a hit against them. Veterans may ignore 1 retreat flag. Raw units do not count Cross-Sabres as hits against the enemy in melee, and they suffer double retreats – militia suffer triple retreats.

The standard CCN rule allowing cavalry attacked by infantry to carry out a manoeuvre called Retire & Reform is lifted straight into this ECW variant. Combined Arms attacks with artillery support are not allowed, since artillery of this period could not co-ordinate in this way.

In CCN, a victorious cavalry unit which eliminates its melee opponent, or forces it to vacate its hex, may take advantage of a Breakthrough rule, by which it may opt to claim the vacated hex, plus (optionally) move another hex, and may carry out an immediate Bonus Melee attack if it is now in a position to do so. The ECW variant will also allow this, but the breakthrough and bonus melee may be repeated as many times in a single turn as the general wishes.

Rash Cavaliers: to reflect the extra difficulty of controlling successful Royalist horse, a special variation applies to Royalist GA units which are designated as “rash”. Such units must carry out a breakthrough, unless they are brought under control, and must carry it out in such a way as to create a bonus melee if it is possible to do so – the Royalist commander may choose which unit to attack if there is a choice, and he does not have to attack villages, woods or earthworks - terrain situations which put horse at a major disadvantage. If he wishes to stop the breakthrough and continued attack by such a rash unit, after any melee victory, the Royalist commander must get them under control. This is achieved by rolling a Cavalry symbol or a Flag on a single Combat Dice; if a Leader is attached to the unit, control is also gained by a roll of Crossed Sabres.

Dragoons
Dragoons (DR) are neither horse nor foot, and so they require their own rules. Dragoon units are duplicated so that they may appear on the table in either mounted or dismounted form. Since in their mounted form they will be on cavalry-style bases of 3 figures, the dismounted dragoons are on special open-order bases of 3 figures too. When they mount or dismount, simply switch the models. Important – anyone fighting dragoons is looking for Cavalry hits, whether the dragoons are mounted or not – this is a little confusing, but is necessary to get the casualty rate correct.

Dragoons may not fire when mounted, and they are very poor in melee. Their musket range (when dismounted) is 2 hexes, same as musketeers. Theoretically, they have a 3-hex move, which they may use to do the following things:

* if mounted, move up to 3 hexes on horseback, or up to 2 hexes and dismount
* if dismounted, up to 1 hex on foot, or mount and ride up to 2 hexes

If they are on foot at the end of the move, they can shoot (half a dice per base/block of 3 figures, rounded up) – so 3 bases get 2 dice, for example.

They can melee at the end of the move, whether on horse or on foot - but not very well (half a dice per base/block of 3 figs, mounted or not). They may not fire and melee in the same move.

Unlike Foot units, Dragoons can fight as soon as they arrive, whatever the terrain.

COMMAND CARDS

Section Cards (48)
Section cards are used to order units in a specific section of the battlefield to move and/or battle. These cards indicate which section of the battlefield you may order units or leaders, and how many units or leaders you may order. An attached leader ordered by a Section Command card may be ordered to detach and move separately. Command cards that state ‘order units equal to command’ mean the number of units you may order is equal to the number of Command cards you hold including this card. Cards that are on a player’s Foot in ‘Stand of Pikes’ tracks are not counted as Command cards you are holding.

SCOUT LEFT FLANK - Issue an order to 1 unit or Leader on the Left Flank. When drawing a new Command card, draw two, choose one and discard the other. (2 cards)
SCOUT CENTER - Issue an order to 1 unit or Leader in the Centre. When drawing a new Command card, draw two, choose one and discard the other. (2 cards)
SCOUT RIGHT FLANK - Issue an order to 1 unit or Leader on the Right Flank. When drawing a new Command card, draw two, choose one and discard the other. (2 cards)
PROBE LEFT FLANK - Issue an order to 2 units or Leaders on the Left Flank. (4 cards)
PROBE CENTER - Issue an order to 2 units or Leaders in the Center. (6 cards)
PROBE RIGHT FLANK - Issue an order to 2 units or Leaders on the Right Flank. (4 cards)
ATTACK LEFT FLANK - Issue an order to 3 units or Leaders on the Left Flank. (4 cards)
ATTACK CENTER - Issue an order to 3 units or Leaders in the Center. (6 cards)
ATTACK RIGHT FLANK - Issue an order to 3 units or Leaders on the Right Flank. (4 cards)
ASSAULT LEFT FLANK - Order a number of units or leaders on the Left Flank equal to command (the number of cards held in your hand including this card). (2 cards)
ASSAULT CENTER - Order a number of units or leaders in the Center equal to command (the number of cards held in your hand including this card). (2 cards)
ASSAULT RIGHT FLANK - Order a number of units or leaders on the Right Flank equal to command (the number of cards held in your hand including this card). (2 cards)
COORDINATED ADVANCE - Issue an order to 4 units or Leaders. Order 1 on the Left Flank, 2 in the Centre and 1 on the Right Flank. (2 cards)
FLANK ATTACK - Issue an order to 2 units or Leaders on each Flank. (2 cards)
REFUSE LEFT - Order a number of units or Leaders on the Right Flank or in the Centre equal to command (the number of cards held in your hand including this card). (2 cards)
REFUSE RIGHT - Order a number of units or leaders on your Left Flank or in the Centre equal to command (the number of cards held in your hand including this card). (2 cards)

Tactic Cards (24) Tactic cards allow ordered units to move and/or battle in ways not normally allowed in the basic rules. Terrain movement and battle restrictions still apply when a Tactic card’s Actions take precedence over basic rules.

BOLD DRAGOONEERS - One unit of Dragoons may make a further complete move after firing (but may not fire a second time). If you have no dragoons, use this card to order any 1 unit of your choice. (2 cards)
BOMBARD – Issue an order to 4 or fewer Artillery units. Ordered units may move up to 2 hexes and not battle, or may not move and battle with 1 additional dice. If you do not have any artillery units, issue an order to any 1 unit of your choice. (2 cards)
CHARGE OF HORSE – Issue an order to 4 or fewer units of Horse (not Dragoons). Ordered units battle with 1 additional die the entire turn. Ordered Cuirassier and “Trotter” units may move 3 hexes and still battle. If you do not have any cavalry units, issue an order to 1 unit of your choice. (3 cards)
COUNTER-ATTACK – Issue the same order that your opponent just played. When you play this card it becomes a copy of the card your opponent played on the last turn. Follow the instructions on that card as though you were actually playing it, except when countering a Section card. Then the right flank becomes left flank and the left flank becomes the right flank. You may not use a Counter-Attack card to replicate an Evade card or a Hazzard a Chaunce card. (2 cards)
EVADE – Play this card after opponent declares a melee attack, but before the dice roll. The attacked unit evades. The attacker does not roll dice. The defender may opt to retire 1 hex, but the attacker may not take the ground or carry out Cavalry Breakthrough. At the end of the turn, you draw a replacement Command card first. (2 cards)
FIRE AND HOLD – Issue an order to 4 or fewer Foot or Artillery units. Ordered units will perform ranged combat with 1 additional die. Ordered units may not be adjacent to enemy troops. Units may not move before or after combat, but foot may come out of ‘stand of pikes’. If you do not have any foot or artillery units, issue an order to 1 unit of your choice. (2 cards)
HAZZARD A CHAUNCE – Present this card to your opponent, who must take the top card from the Chaunce Cards pack. Such a card will probably be to his disadvantage, but not necessarily so. You may use this card instead to order 1 unit or Leader of your choice. (2 cards) NB – if you use this card to direct your opponent to take a Chaunce Card, that ends your turn.
LEADERSHIP – Issue an order to all Leaders. When a Leader is attached to a unit, the unit is also ordered as long as the Leader remains with the unit. Any ordered unit shall roll 1 additional die if it battles. A Leader may detach from a unit. If a Leader moves and joins a unit, the unit is not ordered. If you do not have any Leaders, issue an order to 1 unit of your choice. (2 cards)
MARCH TO VICTORYE – All the units and Leaders in any one Section may be ordered to make a normal move. This move may not bring them into contact with the enemy, they may not carry out any combat, and units of foot may not form (or come out of) Stand of Pikes formation. Normal terrain rules apply. (3 cards)
PUSH! – Issue an order to all units adjacent to the enemy. Ordered units may melee with 1 additional die. Ordered units may not engage in ranged combat. Units may not move before melee combat. After a successful melee, foot may Take Ground and horse may breakthrough and may make a Bonus Melee Attack with its standard number of battle dice. (1 card)
RALLYE – Roll battle dice equal to command (the number of cards held in your hand including this card). For each Foot, Horse or Artillery symbol rolled, 1 block of this type is returned to any under strength unit anywhere on the battlefield, as men return to the ranks. A unit may not gain more blocks than it started the action with. Rallied units that gain at least one block are ordered, and may move and battle as normal. (2 cards)
THE LORD IS WITH US – Roll Roll battle dice equal to command (the number of cards held in your hand including this card). For each symbol rolled, 1 unit of this type is ordered. One unit or leader of your choice may be ordered for each Flag symbol rolled. Sabres order no units or leaders. Ordered units battle with 1 additional die the entire turn. Reshuffle the Command card deck and discard pile. (1 card)

CHAUNCE CARDS

When presented by his opponent with a Hazzard a Chaunce Command Card, a player must take the top card from the Chaunce Cards pack. These represent events outside the normal run of play. Most will not be to the player’s advantage, but some will be. Some will have good or bad consequence for both sides. A number of them are False Alarums, which require no action.

Some of the Chance Cards replace the player’s turn, but in some cases he may still be allowed to play his normal turn after he has carried out the Chaunce Card instructions – each card will explain what is required. In cases where the card replaces the normal turn, the player will, in addition, be allowed the option to discard 1 Command Card from his hand and replace it from the deck.

There are 45 cards.

A PRINCE AMONG SARJEANTS – One of your units (dice for which) has taken to heart the teachings of its sergeant - so much so that their status goes up by one step immediately. Raw become Trained, Trained become Veteran. This does not affect Militia or Veteran units. You may now take your turn as normal.
ALL HAIL ST. SWITHUN – A freak rainstorm wets powder and matches for both sides - no ranged combat at all for 2 complete turns - i.e. 2 each side). You may now take your turn as normal.
ARTILLERY HORSES – The contractor who supplied the horses for your artillery has taken his animals home. Your artillery cannot move for the rest of the day. If you have no artillery, ignore this card. In any event, you may now take your turn as normal.
BAD POWDER – One of your units of Foot or Dragoons (dice for which) has been supplied with poor quality gunpowder. They must retire to your baseline (you may choose where) and stay there 1 turn without firing, to obtain replacement powder & sort out their apostles. You may now take your turn as normal.
CHICKWEED – All of your units of Horse (including Dragoons, but this does not affect Leaders) have been provided with feed contaminated with Chickweed, and the horses are suffering from colic. Deduct 1 hex from all mounted movement for the rest of the day. If you have no Horse, disregard the card. You may now take your turn as normal.
DAMNED TURNCOTES – One of your units within 4 hexes of the enemy (dice if there is a choice) has made a secret pact with the enemy, and now changes sides. They may move up to 3 hexes to join their new comrades. Any attached Leader will defect along with them. This loss gives rise to 1 or more Victory Banners, as normal. If you have no units within 4 hexes, ignore this card. Otherwise, this replaces your turn, but you may also discard & replace 1 Command Card if you wish.
EXCEEDING NERVOSE – Your most advanced unit (dice if there is a choice) is concerned about its exposed position and retires 3 hexes. Normal rules about clear hexes or terrain do not apply, but the unit may not cross an unfordable river. The unit must go back, and may not contact the enemy, but otherwise its route and new location are your choice. This replaces your turn, but you may also discard & replace 1 Command Card if you wish.
FALSE ALARUM – You may take your turn as normal. (11 cards)
FRIENDLY FIRE – One artillery unit (dice if there is a choice) becomes confused and fires on the nearest friendly unit (your choice if more than one equidistant). If you have no artillery, or your artillery have no possible friendly target, then ignore this card and take your normal turn. Otherwise this replaces your turn, but you may also discard & replace 1 Command Card if you wish.
FUMBLETHUMBS – The last unit of Foot to fire (either side) has had a powder accident and must roll a Combat Dice - if it comes up with an Infantry symbol they lose 1 block to confusion and demoralisation. If it comes up a flag they have to retreat 2 hexes to recover. This replaces your turn, but you may also discard & replace 1 Command Card if you wish.
GOING FOR IT BALD-HEADED – One cavalry unit within 4 hexes of the enemy (dice if there is a choice) charges to contact with nearest enemy. The melee follows normal rules for Breakthrough, Bonus Melee etc. If you have no cavalry within 4 hexes then ignore this card and take your normal turn. Otherwise this replaces your turn, but you may also discard & replace 1 Command Card if you wish.
GRIMME REAPER – One of your units (dice for which) reckons it can clearly make out the image of the Angel of Death in the clouds. Roll a Combat Dice for each block present - matching symbol and that block deserts. You may now take your turn as normal.
HOT FOR REVENGE – Two of your units (dice for which) get 1 extra dice in combat for the rest of the day. You may now take your turn as normal.
I SHALL NEVER TOUCH THE STUFF AGAINE – One of your units (dice for which) spent last night in the cellars of the Flying Pig, and is feeling the effects. Deduct 1 dice from all combat for the rest of the day. You may now take your turn as normal.
LAY DOWN YOUR ARMES – One of your units which is adjacent to an enemy (dice if there is a choice) has its commander struck down and its colour taken, and it loses heart. They surrender immediately, and are lost. The unit they surrender to loses 1 base as prisoner guards. Ignore and take your normal turn if no unit is in this situation. Otherwise this replaces your turn, but you may also discard & replace 1 Command Card if you wish.
MY LORD, YOU ARE PAYLE – One of your Leaders (dice for which) is hit by a stray ball. Roll 1D6 to find severity.
1 = Unhurt
2 = Just a Scratch
3 = Flesh Wound
4 = Severe Wound
5 = Mortal Wound
6 = Dead
If the severity is 4 or more, remove him from the Field. This replaces your turn, but you may also discard & replace 1 Command Card if you wish.
NO ORDERS – All your Leaders who are currently attached to a unit become unattached, and will move to the nearest empty hex which is not adjacent to an enemy. If you have no attached Leaders, ignore this card and take your turn as normal. Otherwise, this replaces your turn, but you may also discard & replace 1 Command Card if you wish.
O BUGGER IT – A militia/raw unit (dice if there is a choice) has no spirit for the conflict and goes home. If you have no such units you may disregard this card. You may now take your turn as normal.
OLD DAVEY FINDES A CROSSING – An unfordable river section (dice for which) turns out to be fordable for the first time anyone can recall. If there are no unfordable river sections, ignore this card. You may now take your turn as normal.
ONLY 2 INCHES DEPE ON THE DUCKS – A fordable river section (dice for which) turns out to be unfordable. If there are no fordable river sections, ignore this card. You may now take your turn as normal.
RABBITS! – One of your mounted units (dice for which) has fallen foul of rabbit holes in the soft ground. Troopers have been thrown and horses badly injured. Lose a base to confusion, and the unit cannot move for 1 turn while things are sorted out. You may now take your turn as normal.
SOFT GOING – Because of the soft conditions underfoot and all the troop movements, the going has become very difficult for horses. All mounted troops on both sides deduct 1 hex from movement for the rest of the day. You may now take your turn as normal.
THE CORONEL’S TRUBBLE AGAIN – The commander of one of your units (dice for which) has been struck down by a recurrent illness which affects him in times of stress. The unit may not take any Orders until a Leader is attached to them. Thereafter the problem will cease. You may now take your turn as normal.
THE DIZZINESS – You (the Commander) are taken ill, and your performance is badly affected. Your opponent should select one Command Card from your hand (unseen), and it will be placed on the Discard stack. For the rest of the day you will be forced to work with 1 Command Card less. You may now take your turn as normal.
THE FOGGE OF WAR – Confusion over orders temporarily paralyses your High Command. Discard all your current Command Cards, and replace them from the Command Deck. Reshuffle and reset the Command Deck and the discard stack. This ends your turn, and you may take no further action.
THE INSPIRED WORDE – One of your units (dice for which) has been given an inspirational speech by its commander, and will gain an extra dice in all combat for the rest of the day. You may now take your turn as normal.
THEY SAY THERE IS GOLD IN THE BAGGAGE – One of your units (dice for which) is fired up by the hope of much loot, and gets 1 extra dice in all combats for the rest of the day. You may now take your turn as normal.
T’WAS BUT A MISTAKE – One of your Leader casualties (dice if there is a choice) is found behind the lines, searching for his horse. He was unharmed after all! Adjust Victory Banners accordingly. If you have no missing leaders, ignore this card. You may now take your turn as normal.
THE BITER BIT – Ask your opponent to take a Chaunce Card himself - there is no other News for you here! This replaces your turn, but you may also discard & replace 1 Command Card if you wish.
THE DEVIL’S MATCH – One of your artillery units (dice for which) suffers a powder explosion. Roll a dice – an  Artillery symbol or Crossed Sabres will eliminate 1 block. If it is Sabres, the explosion is very severe – roll 1 dice for each adjacent unit (of whatever side) which is not in a town, a wood or earthworks. A Foot, Horse or Artillery symbol will remove 1 block if it matches the unit type – a Flag symbol will remove a Leader. If you have no artillery, disregard the card. This replaces your turn, but you may also discard & replace 1 Command Card if you wish.
VICTORYE IS OURS – One of your units of horse (not dragoons - dice for which) suddenly realises that they cannot be beaten on this day, and becomes classified as Rash Gallopers - whichever side they are on. If you have no units of horse, or if the unit selected are already Rash Gallopers, this card has no effect. You may now take your turn as normal.
WEAK BRIDGE – A bridge (dice for which) has collapsed and cannot be repaired today. Any unit on the bridge is lost. If there are no bridges on the field, ignore this card. You may now take your turn as normal.
WE’RE BACK – An unexpected extra unit of yours has arrived - it could be a rearguard unit which lost its way. Dice for type - Artillery, Foot, Horse or Leader (flag) - Sabres symbol means it was just a rumour! Position it where you wish on your baseline, but not in contact with the enemy. If there are no spare units of this type, ignore this card. You may now take your turn as normal.
WHAT WAS IN THAT BARN? – One occupied built-up hex (occupied by either side - dice for which) suffers a disastrous fire & must be abandoned. If there is no occupied built-up hex, select an unoccupied one. The hex selected will burn for the rest of the day, and may not be occupied again. If no built-up hexes, ignore the card. You may now take your turn as normal.
WHO DREW THIS MAPPE? – One of your units located in open terrain (dice for which) finds that it is standing in a previously undetected marsh. Move the unit, and mark the ground appropriately. If you have no units in the open, disregard the card. You may now take your turn as normal.

Kings Lifeguard and new field hexes.

Just completed another Foot Regiment, decided to make them the Kings Lifeguard, a 5 'block' Veteran unit, should be a hard fighting unit on the field of battle. I also made up some new field hexes, the first of many I have planned including ploughed and crop fields. As I use a grid of 95mm hexes I wanted to be able to place some fields that were not hexagonal, so I'm quite happy with the finished result. My 60 x 60mm bases fit inside the fields, so will provide some soft cover for my planned Dragoons.

I'm just finishing off a few generals and the first artillery base, then for the rest of this week I'll be focused on finishing off a unit of 20mm ECW horse for a friend. After that I'll be back to more 6mm ECW stuff as this blog will now be my main focus over the Napoleonic blog.

The Commands & Colors ECW variant rules are almost completed thanks to a lot of work by 'Foy' and they look very workable. Both the Command Cards and 'Hazzard a Chaunce' cards are ready too. I hope to post a link here shortly for perusal and feedback.

I took a few pics of my units so far placed on the table (which was set up for a Napoleonic game at the time) as the lighting is better up there. The pictures give an idea of how I use the 95mm hexagonal MDF bases for my wood/forest/field bases etc.

Part 2 - The Basing Guide.

Here is the follow up basing method guide. As my camera batteries ran out during the painting guide I decided to quickly knock off another base of horse to use for this, so here is my third base of ECW horse and a description of how I base them up.  I should stress that I regard my units more as playing pieces in a board game sense and as such I like attach labels in order to avoid any book keeping during games. I could of course attach labels to the underside of bases but in order to avoid any damage to my 6mm figures I use the small strip along the back edge.

OK, having painted the unit and cut down the individual figures I coat the base in PVA carefully with a brush as shown in the previous post. I then place each figure into the glue, brushing a little around each base as I go.

Once all the figures are in place I then sprinkle over my mix of 50% fine grit and 50% 'earth flock' before leaving to dry for several hours at least. Once the excess is removed the base is ready for painting and finishing.

Next I use Citadel 'Vermin Brown' to colour areas of the base. I thin it down so that it drys leaving nly a light tint on the raised stone areas. Generally I paint around 50% of the base and also work it carefully between the figures.

Next I glue on my printed label. This unit is a 4 'block' horse unit, 'Trained' and who charge  at the trot.

Now the static grass. I still use Citadel and I like it, you may of course prefer the shorter blade static grass as sold by Baccus especially for 6mm figures. Again I apply this in carefully placed areas to contrast with the brown, using a fine damp brush to get between and under the horses.

Finally a light dry brush of 'Linen' over the stonework and it's done!

I would say the painting of a base takes around an hour and a quarter maybe, usually in two short sessions. The basing probably adds another half hour in short stages between drying.

The project so far.

In three weeks or so I have painted 7 bases, 4 foot and 3 horse so good going, that's between a base of Napoleonic Hussars and working on more terrain bits. I have also finished the pike block for what will be a 'Pike Heavy' unit, these will have 18 pikemen, 16 muskets plus the 4 command figures and will represent units where the ideal ratio of approx 2 to 1 has not been achieved. I'm just waiting on more goodies to arrive from Baccus including artillery, dragoons and command figures. After a few more foot units I want to do more horse bases, including a base of Parliamentarian cuirassiers. Extra figures from the pack will be incorporated into my planned Ruperts Lifeguard, which will also feature some of the heavily armoured chaps as befits their noble status, mixed with the standard back and breast/ pot figures. Oh, and if you spot a few of the larger brethren lurking in the background I'm also painting a 12 figure horse unit for 'Foy' of the excellent 'Prometheus in Aspic' blog, wonderful 20mm ECW figures packed full of character. Should be a joy to paint.

A few pics of the 7 bases so far.

Edit: Added a pic of my Commands & Colours game board, set up for a Napoleonic game. The board is marked up in a hex grid with yellow dots at the points only. New ECW buildings and terrain will be added in due course.
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Painting guide - a 6mm regiment of horse.(Part 1.)

As requested by Ron - and as I enjoy doing them anyway - here is a stage by stage guide to how I paint my figures. The subject is a base of 18 figures and the method has evolved to be a quick but effective way of producing what I hope are quite attractive little units. I think the basing has a lot to do with the final impact of the unit and this will follow shortly as my camera batteries died half way through! So this is part 1 - the painting method. A few of the final stages were shot using the camera on my daughters iphone and what an amazing little camera it is.

The main thing for me is to try to avoid painting black beyond the initial undercoat. Thus the armour and helmet remain black, and I try to leave a few fine black shadow areas especially where colours meet etc. I use a Citadel 'fine' brush for everything, I have several of these and keep the very finest for fine line work. I wash the brush very frequently, often every strip of figures to stop the paint drying in the brush which greatly prolongs its life. Colours have been carefully selected not just for the actual shade but also, and importantly, for the ability of the colour to cover in a single stroke without the need to re coat. I tend to use only the very tip of the brush, recharging every couple of figures or so. I don't use washes or inks or any of the now popular quick shading AP style stuff. I try to work quickly and fluently, applying dabs or dots of paint and lines.

Right then, here goes - 18 Baccus ECW horse from pack ECW6, 5 lines strips and 1 command strip. Undercoated carefully by brush in Citadel black.

1. I always start with Foundry flesh shade. On these figures only parts of the faces can be seen, the hands being gauntlets or maybe armour on the bridle arm side. This can then be highlighted with Foundry flesh (mid).

2. 'Buff' I selected Citadel ' Iyander Darksun' for the reasons above, it's an excellent paint that covers very well. I use this all of my 'buff'. You can add a touch of Foundry Buff Leather Shade for a little contrast but I just use it straight. Its a very thick paint so brushes have to be kept damp by frequent washing of the tip. Down the arms, trying to leave a little black here and there, also the coat tails. The civil war buff coat was sown in panels and could be sleeved or sleeveless. I then paint the cross belts same colour.

3. White - dot in collars~ and other white areas.

4. I went for Light Blue saddle blankets on this unit and for the flag and trumpet banner. I also used it for the trumpters coat sleeves. This just adds a touch of individuality to each base of horse I find.

5.'Leather' areas next. I mix this from Citadel 'Calthan' brown which is another nice thick shade with great coverage, and Foundry 'Tan' which is a little to thin to use alone but brings up a nice convincing leatherwork shade. Boots, pistol holsters, any hair, gauntlets.

6.They already look pretty well done at this stage - next any metallics are painted. I use Foundry 'Spearpoint' for swords and then 'shiny' for the trumpet, sword hilts, etc.

7. Finally paint any extra required touches, in this case red sashes, plumes etc. Figures are done, now for the horses, one of my favourite parts!

Horses.

8. I dislike seeing 6mm horses that are simply washed over and left! I enjoy painting horses, even in this tiny scale. My base colours and Citadel Calthan Brown and Foundry Spearshaft shade. I select 1 strip to leave as black horses for contrast and then paint 3 strips with Calthan Brown. I try to leave areas of black showing for some depth, painting on the raised muscle areas. Around the head I dot both ears, the face and nose. I try not to touch any of the bridle work or straps so they remain black. I then repeat this with the remaining 2 strips and Foundry Spearshaft shade, which is a more 'chestnut' looking colour than the Calthan brown.

9. Highlights. This really brings the horses to life I think. For the Calthan Brown horses I add white for the highlights. Apply this around the rear end of the horse, down the legs, dot the knees etc. A couple of slashes along the neck, again avoiding the straps. For the Spearshaft shade horses I add Foundry 'Tan' - a lovely shade. I use some pure Tan on some of the horses and add a touch of white to the Spearhsaft/Tan mix on one or two others for contrast.

10. White - finally I add a dab of white to some lower legs and noses, manes and the odd tail highlight.

11. Green bases, not sure why I always use plain green but I do!

Once everything is dry I then cut the strips down ready for basing. Part 2 to follow shortly.

Rawdons Regiment of Foot.

This is the latest painted base - Sir Marmaduke Rawdons Yellowcoats. As part of the development of this project I have made the decision to base my units upon those of the Sealed Knot, and to follow the same organisation. This is probably partly nostalgia as I spent some very happy weekends wielding a pike for Parliament many years ago, and I retain the greatest of respect for all those members of the Knot who commit so much time and energy to bringing this fascinating period of our history back to life. I hope it will give my project a nice edge in seeing those familiar unit names recreated on my wargame table. It also means I can post a link to most units as I complete them, where the history and war service of the unit can be read.

You can also see the first of my new labels stuck to the rear of the bases, neatly marked with the units type (Command & Colors style), name and quality. In Rawdons case '4' designates a medium sized unit of 4 blocks which are classified as Veterans. The small red dot denotes 'Royalist', for those of Parliament the dot will be orange. I think they look nice and neat. Also in response to a comment made on TMP I decided to add a touch of drybrush over the brown stonework to tone it down just slightly, I'm so pleased with the result I may even do this to the Napoleonics.

The other units painted so far will be given labels too. Next unit will be another base of horse, 18 figures which I will use for a step by step painting guide as requested. While I'm working on that I also want to post up a draft of 'Foy's 'C&C/ECW' adaptions which I have been contributing a few ideas and suggestions to. They are coming together a treat now and Foy has also created a wonderful set of period specific command cards. best of all I think, he has developed a number of what started out as 'chance' cards to add a touch of spice and uncertainty to the game. They have evolved into a brilliant set of cards called 'Hazzard a Chaunce' which contains such things as unexpected powder explosions ' The Devils Match' sudden downpour damping the powder 'All Hail St.Swithuns' superstitious sign causing desertion 'Grim reaper' and many more including my favourite ' The Coronels Trubble Again' where sudden re occurring illness leaves a unit requiring a leader stand to attach and to give orders. Very inventive stuff I hope you will agree, and should add a nice element of fun into our games. I'm putting together a post to include all of the rules so far.

So back to Rawdons. The Sealed Knot link and some photos.